Last August, Cleveland Heights and loyal diners mourned the permanent closure of Nighttown—a local fixture that shuttered only nine months after reopening under a new owner. This month, the city is welcoming the debut of another iconic restaurant on the former-Nighttown site.

EDWINS Leadership & Restaurant Institute opened at the west end of Cedar-Fairmount on Feb. 28, generating anticipation among residents who were eager for a true revival of the former Nighttown property. Eric Mack, a Cleveland Heights resident and loyal EDWINS’ patron, calls the location a “perfect fit” for owner and chef Brandon Chrostowski’s mission-driven establishment.

“There’s still that higher-end dining experience of Nighttown, while adding other aspects of EDWINS like the cigar bar,” says Mack. “That location pairs [in the neighborhood] with Zhug and Vero, and they all complement each other.”

EDWINS founder Chef Brandon ChrostowskiChrostowski closed both EDWINS and EDWINS Too Shaker Square locations in late February—the restauranteur says he had been dealing with ongoing crime in Shaker Square that affected both EDWINS establishments and the surrounding shopping district. Still, the excitement of moving locations far outweighs any pressure of taking Nighttown's place, he says.

“It’s been jerky, but this team put it together in nine days,” Chrostowski told Fresh Water Cleveland during a Feb. 27 press tour of the new establishment. “It’s about pushing ahead, because we have a big opportunity here,” he says. “We don’t want to blow it.”

A neighborhood benefit

After calling Shaker Square home for 12 years, Chrostowski is now re-establishing the fine dining and casual brasserie experience that has made EDWINS so celebrated.

The main dining area offers a high-end menu with premium pricing—serving choices like Fillet de Sole Brillat Savarin (lobster and black truffle mousse-filled sole filets with sauce Américaine) and Grenadin de Veau avec Creme de Cibroulete (roasted veal cutlet with chive cream sauce and carrots), as well as five- and seven-course tasting menus.

The adjacent rooms, bars, and patios host the more casual versions of EDWINS’ cuisine—such as Steak Frites, Chicken Paillard, and Beef Short Ribs, as well as a full vegan menu.

A heated cigar room situated off the main dining space keeps with EDWINS' established charm.

The atmospheric jazz-club atmosphere of Nighttown will be preserved with nightly piano music. Larger acts will take the stage on weekends, with bigger names requiring a cover charge.

A focus on adult-oriented food, drinks and entertainment does not mean that children are unwelcome, notes Chrostowski. EDWINS’ kids’ menu offers poutine and other delicacies for less than $10.

“We are looking to embrace family around here,” Chrostowski says. “I’ve got four kids with one more on the way, so I understand what family means. It’s hard to go out nowadays and afford [a meal], so we are happy to provide some lower price points.”

Cleveland chef Doug Katz's  Mediterranean-themed Zhug, just a half-block from EDWINS on Cedar Hill, has seen success since it opened more than five years ago. Katz says Cedar-Fairmount can prosper from the restaurant’s seemingly smooth transition into the district—especially after five years of uncertainty and speculation about a Nighttown property that never returned to form.

Chef Doug Katz“That period changed people’s mindset of what that location should be, and expectations have changed so much over the years,” says Katz. “The fact that it’s Brandon taking over the space, I can’t think of someone who could do a better job.”

He says EDWINS adds to the area’s varied culinary offerings as well, ranging from beers and wings to more upscale selections. Ideally, Katz adds, a bustling restaurant at Nighttown’s former spot will reactivate a section of Cedar-Fairmount that has recently lacked visitor traffic.

“It will be a huge benefit for Zhug, too, as any traffic will pass by our storefront,” he says. “The more vibrancy we have, the better. With all the programming at University Circle, that life can carry up the hill if we have a vibrant district ourselves.”

Giving back

EDWINS' social impact extends beyond dining, thanks to the EDWINS Institute, an acclaimed culinary training program housed in the restaurant basement. The Feb. 27 press tour featured a class of would-be chefs learning essential culinary techniques.

Culinary Students at the Kitchen“The goal behind this was not just opening a big, fancy restaurant, but how we could get

students into one room to be able to watch them crawl, walk and run,” says Chrostowski, whose program trains formerly incarcerated adults who want a second chance at success.

The philanthropic aspect of EDWINS only enhances the dining experience for Cleveland Heights resident Mack.

“It makes it even better that people are learning at EDWINS or moving on to another restaurant and applying their experience,” he says. “I enjoy that my monetary impact is greater than just purchasing food and drink. Everyone deserves a second chance at life, and Brandon is helping people get that opportunity.”

EDWINS will host live jazz this Friday, March 14 with Dan Maier & Kevin Muhammed, and Saturday, March 15 with The Synergy Band. Seating is first come, first served. Special guest Dominick Farinacci will appear on Friday, March 21 at 7 p.m. and 9 p.m. Tickets are $30.

EDWINS hours are Tuesday through Sunday, 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. for fine dining; Tuesday and Wednesday, 4 p.m. to 12 a.m. and Thursday through Saturday, 4 p.m. to 2 a.m. in The Brasserie for casual dining; and 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. for Sunday Brunch. Closed on Mondays. Reservations can be made for any of the rooms or the patio. 12383 Cedar Road, Cleveland Heights 44106, (216) 921-3333.